When did you last cross a border? NOT on a plane. Ahhhhh. Probably… never. Maybe on a bus tour? We crossed from Brazil to Argentina to see the other side of Igausu but we had a guide and driver and didn’t actually leave the car. Cash may have crossed palms, but not mine. But have you ever actually, physically, personally, walked from one country to another? (European ones DON’T count, obvs). Checkpoint Charlie time. Well we did it yesterday. We went down to Eilat, as Deep South as you can go in Israel without either falling into the Red Sea or ending up in Egypt. But we didn’t want to go to Egypt. We wanted to go to Jordan. We’re here to see Petra. Because it’s apparently ‘quite nice’. Ok, its one of the wonders of the world and I’m really excited. But possibly not as excited as walking across the border between two friendly… ish but cautiously defensive nations. So there’s 6 passport checks. And guns. Lots of guns. On both sides. And to be honest, its scary. Lots of barbed wire, fencing, walls. It’s like walking into a prison. But a bit more hostile.

We were met half way through by a guide. His name was Mohammed and he then drove us to Aqaba where we were spending the night. And although he sounds like an Uber driver, he’d never qualify. He drove at 90 miles an hour virtually all the way. Whilst on the phone. And checking texts. And THANK GOD (and quite frankly, any fucking God would have done by then) we arrived at our hotel. We were in Jordan.

And I kind of want to like being in Jordan, I want to love the people, want to feel ‘the brotherhood’ and embrace them all unto my (pathetic little) bosom, but… but…

But I can’t. The culture is not merely alien, because I’ve traveled sufficiently that I’m happy to embrace other cultures, third world cultures, anything really. I almost forgive the ‘call to prayer’ at 4.30am and the WTF!!! you feel when it happens. And I appreciate that Arab culture is something I am prejudiced about. But you walk the streets here and there are no women. Yet Jordan is a moderate country, not a ‘Muslim State’, you are free to live as your personal views dictate. It’s not Iran and its not Saudi Arabia. But the ways endure. The values which are so opposite to our own. Particularly towards women and particularly when these allegedly puritanical men leer at my daughter in ways that make me want to hurt them. Oddly I never get that feeling from the Arab men in Israel, but maybe I’m just not as sensitive there.

But heh, I’m not here to check on the tolerance to gays, women’s rights or dirty old men. I’m here to see Petra. And I did. Spent the day there today. And a wonder of the world it really is. Breathtakingly magnificent. Unbelievably beautiful. This pic is a little taster. If I get time tomorrow after the long hike from Petra to Eilat then pick up the car and go 4 hours back to Tel Aviv, I’ll tell you allllllllll about it. If not, it’ll wait.

Happy Sunday

A xxxx